Pour Like a Pro: Festive Wine Edit
Master Sommelier Vincent Morrow shares his top sparkling, white, and red picks for holiday tables.
I come from an Italian and African-American background, so the holiday dinner table was always abundant and diverse. With that in mind, I look for wines that offer flexibility at Thanksgiving.
Sparkling
Sparkling wine checks so many “holiday” boxes: it complements a wide array of dishes, is approachable for all palates, and—most importantly—it’s festive! Our current sparkling rosé at The Modern, Arnaud Lambert Brut Rosé from the Loire Valley in France, is one of my favorites. Made in the same method as Champagne and at a fraction of the price, it’s crisp and bright with predominantly pink and red fruit.
White
For Thanksgiving, I consider white wines in two categories: those for appetizers and snacking while cooking, and textured, spicier whites for dinner.
For appetizers, choose crisp, dry wines like Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc, or try something different—Verdicchio from Marche (Italy) or Grüner Veltliner from Wachau (Austria). At Ci Siamo, we recently started pouring Fattoria Nanni “Arsicci”, an entry-level bottling from 50-year-old vines—an age practically unheard of in the region. At roughly $20–25 SRP, it’s criminally underpriced: dry, salty, and refreshing, with creamy density from the older vines’ concentration.
For dinner, a creamy Chardonnay is always safe—especially with traditional dishes like turkey with gravy or sweet potatoes. For a twist, try Alsace Pinot Gris. Many carry a hint of residual sugar, adding range to the table. One favorite is Domaine Ostertag ‘Les Jardins’, an aromatic, floral wine with sun-kissed fruit and a touch of sugar—a reliable choice for the holiday table.
Red
I prefer lighter reds at Thanksgiving, which balance the richness of the food. Think Pinot Noir, Gamay (e.g., Beaujolais), Trousseau, and similar varieties.
As a recent California transplant, I’m a fan of California Pinot Noir. One standout is Bloodroot in Sonoma County, the younger sibling of Reeve Winery, an iconic Pinot Noir (and Italian grape) producer. At $20–25, it’s one of the most delicious examples around—juicy cherries, soft mouthfeel, and complexity for connoisseurs, yet quaffable for everyone. If you have the budget, consider splurging on Reeve’s sibling Pinot Noirs, which range upwards of $50–$70.