Pour Like a Pro: Festive Wine Edit
Master Sommelier Vincent Morrow shares his top sparkling, white, and red picks for holiday tables.
I come from an Italian and African-American background, so the holiday dinner table was always abundant and diverse. With that in mind, I look for wines that offer flexibility at Thanksgiving.
Sparkling
Sparkling wine checks so many āholidayā boxes: it complements a wide array of dishes, is approachable for all palates, andāmost importantlyāitās festive! Our current sparkling rosĆ© at The Modern, Arnaud Lambert Brut RosĆ© from the Loire Valley in France, is one of my favorites. Made in the same method as Champagne and at a fraction of the price, itās crisp and bright with predominantly pink and red fruit.
White
For Thanksgiving, I consider white wines in two categories: those for appetizers and snacking while cooking, and textured, spicier whites for dinner.
For appetizers, choose crisp, dry wines like Chablis or Sauvignon Blanc, or try something differentāVerdicchio from Marche (Italy) or Grüner Veltliner from Wachau (Austria). At Ci Siamo, we recently started pouring Fattoria Nanni āArsicciā, an entry-level bottling from 50-year-old vinesāan age practically unheard of in the region. At roughly $20ā25 SRP, itās criminally underpriced: dry, salty, and refreshing, with creamy density from the older vinesā concentration.
For dinner, a creamy Chardonnay is always safeāespecially with traditional dishes like turkey with gravy or sweet potatoes. For a twist, try Alsace Pinot Gris. Many carry a hint of residual sugar, adding range to the table. One favorite is Domaine Ostertag āLes Jardinsā, an aromatic, floral wine with sun-kissed fruit and a touch of sugarāa reliable choice for the holiday table.
Red
I prefer lighter reds at Thanksgiving, which balance the richness of the food. Think Pinot Noir, Gamay (e.g., Beaujolais), Trousseau, and similar varieties.
As a recent California transplant, Iām a fan of California Pinot Noir. One standout is Bloodroot in Sonoma County, the younger sibling of Reeve Winery, an iconic Pinot Noir (and Italian grape) producer. At $20ā25, itās one of the most delicious examples aroundājuicy cherries, soft mouthfeel, and complexity for connoisseurs, yet quaffable for everyone. If you have the budget, consider splurging on Reeveās sibling Pinot Noirs, which range upwards of $50ā$70.